I arrived in Istanbul in the evening. The bus station was miles away from the main city, but free shuttles took you the rest of the journey. I got off in Taksim square and walked down a main shopping street to my couchsurfer's apartment. My couchsurfer lived in an old, historic apartment block in an excellent location in the city. I marched myself up the four flights of stairs with all my bags and tried to catch my breath before ringing the bell. My host opened the door and explained that he was just about to go out – I had arrived just in time! He showed me where my room was, and left me the WiFi code and a spare key before heading out to his appointment. I had a quick shower then went out to hunt down some dinner.
I walked 5 minutes to one of the major pedestrian-only roads Istiklal road. It was full of people and all manner of shops, boutiques, malls, cafes, and restaurants. There were lots of little alleyways running off Istiklal, they were crowded with cafes and buzzing with activity. The prices in Istanbul were a bit more expensive than what I had grown used to in the smaller towns. In my stubbornness I couldn't settle on anything, so I ended up just buying some rice – but don't misunderstand me – having rice for dinner was not a desperate last resort – in fact it was one of my favourite foods to eat in Turkey! In Istanbul you can buy rice anywhere – they even have vendors with small carts selling rice on the footpath. I don't know the trick to how they cook rice in Turkey, but it is some of the most delicious rice I have ever tasted!
I wandered the streets a little longer until the cold drove me back to the apartment. Europe was definitely descending into winter and I was not keen on hanging around for it – the sooner I left, the better!
My couchsurfer and I got along well, and we had some good conversations. He gave me good tips on where to visit in Istanbul. I only had a couple of days, so I needed a good plan. On the map, my host pointed out interesting areas and landmarks to see, and showed me areas to avoid. Being the type of person I am, my ears suddenly pricked up when he told me the areas not to go to, and they became the first places that I wanted to visit.
I began my day with the touristy parts of town. I bought a sampler plate of baklava from a famous baklava house. I consumed so much sugar in that one sitting that I was surprised that I did not collapse from overindulgence! (I did, however, become quite the baklava connoisseur).
I walked over the 2 level Galata bridge. On the top, cars and pedestrians make their way to the other side; vendors sell corn on the cob and bread rolls, while fishermen cast their lines into the murky river below. On the bottom level seafood restaurants with bright neon signs jostle for customers.
I wandered the streets a little longer until the cold drove me back to the apartment. Europe was definitely descending into winter and I was not keen on hanging around for it – the sooner I left, the better!
My couchsurfer and I got along well, and we had some good conversations. He gave me good tips on where to visit in Istanbul. I only had a couple of days, so I needed a good plan. On the map, my host pointed out interesting areas and landmarks to see, and showed me areas to avoid. Being the type of person I am, my ears suddenly pricked up when he told me the areas not to go to, and they became the first places that I wanted to visit.
I began my day with the touristy parts of town. I bought a sampler plate of baklava from a famous baklava house. I consumed so much sugar in that one sitting that I was surprised that I did not collapse from overindulgence! (I did, however, become quite the baklava connoisseur).
I walked over the 2 level Galata bridge. On the top, cars and pedestrians make their way to the other side; vendors sell corn on the cob and bread rolls, while fishermen cast their lines into the murky river below. On the bottom level seafood restaurants with bright neon signs jostle for customers.
I bought a corn-on-the-cob and munched away as I walked past beautifully designed mosques and buildings. My first stop was the city Basilica Cistern. This was an underground plumbing system used centuries ago. Inside it was dark, and shallow water covered the entire room, punctuated by large, illuminated columns. Raised walkways ran the length of the room that allowed you to walk around and view the columns. Golden and scarlet light lit up the columns from the base, and cast the most incredible reflections in the water. It was breathtaking.
I walked back into the bright sunlight in a bit of a daze. I headed across the road to the Hagia Sophia – an exquisite building which over the centuries had served many different peoples – originally built as a church, it later became a mosque, and more recently, a museum. It was huge inside. It had the most beautiful and ornate chandeliers. Hidden near the back of the building was a small stone ramp which led to the upper level. The inside is in the process of a large restoration project, and scaffolding takes up almost a quarter of the space, but even with the eyesore, it doesn't detract from the beauty of it.
I left the church and crossed the garden square to the Blue mosque. As I lined up I got prepared for entry – it was an efficient process, but still a process no less. As a woman, I had to wear a covering over my head, and then all shoes had to be removed and placed into plastic bags. They ushered us in, inspecting our clothes to make sure we were dressed modestly enough. Inside the mosque it was spacious and large. Soft, thick carpet lined the floor, and large chandeliers hung from the ceiling. It was my first time in a mosque, and it was a lovely one. I wandered around a few other places in the city, then headed to the 'bad' areas that my couchsurfer had warned me about.
I walked back into the bright sunlight in a bit of a daze. I headed across the road to the Hagia Sophia – an exquisite building which over the centuries had served many different peoples – originally built as a church, it later became a mosque, and more recently, a museum. It was huge inside. It had the most beautiful and ornate chandeliers. Hidden near the back of the building was a small stone ramp which led to the upper level. The inside is in the process of a large restoration project, and scaffolding takes up almost a quarter of the space, but even with the eyesore, it doesn't detract from the beauty of it.
I left the church and crossed the garden square to the Blue mosque. As I lined up I got prepared for entry – it was an efficient process, but still a process no less. As a woman, I had to wear a covering over my head, and then all shoes had to be removed and placed into plastic bags. They ushered us in, inspecting our clothes to make sure we were dressed modestly enough. Inside the mosque it was spacious and large. Soft, thick carpet lined the floor, and large chandeliers hung from the ceiling. It was my first time in a mosque, and it was a lovely one. I wandered around a few other places in the city, then headed to the 'bad' areas that my couchsurfer had warned me about.
The 'bad' areas consisted of dilapidated low-cost housing, broken pavements and dusty roads. Roosters, chickens and goats roamed all over the streets. Colourful washing hung suspended high above the ground, strung between buildings. Markets pulsed with energy and life. People mingled everywhere. Children sat on the curb giggling and playing games. Vendors sold rice and corn on the cob. Small cafes churned out kebabs to queues of hungry patrons. The aromatic smoky flavour drew you from miles away. I felt such joy from these so-called 'dangerous' places. It was my favourite part of my time in Istanbul.
Back at my couchsurfer's place, we chatted about Turkish culture and traditional foods. The next day was my last day in Istanbul. I had a relaxed morning with my couchsurfer watching a movie, then he suggested that I spend the day going around tasting all the different Turkish foods. It didn't take much convincing to get me on board – I loved Turkish food! We headed out to a local cafe and ordered a traditional wrap with mixed spices and salad. It was very tasty! My couchsurfer had to then go and do some work, but he gave me a list of foods and the best places to get them. I had such a great time. I took my time, hopping from street to street, taking in all the smells, sounds, and activity. I stopped in a cafe for rosehip tea, tried some authentic Turkish delight, bought freshly squeezed fruit juice from a local market, tried a pastries and bread at a bakery, and a traditional dessert at a fancy cafe.
My crazy day of trying food was really the best way to end my time in Turkey, since the food in Turkey was just so delicious, and so much a part of the culture. I picked up my backpack and waved farewell to my couchsurfer. I took the bus to the airport, settled on a bench and got a little bit of sleep before my flight boarded at 3am. Goodbye Turkey! I will miss your gastronomic delights!
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